While we were super excited to cycle up to Broken Hill to see our mums, there was no way we would cycle the same road back if we could help it. Luckily for us, Tim’s brother has a ute (utility for those of you, not Aussies) and was kind enough to drive us back to Peterborough to start our ride into Adelaide. We got an early start and what had taken us 3 and a half grueling days was retraced in just 3 hours. With the terrain still fresh in our minds, the trip backwards took on a whole new perspective.
The Peterborough Caravan Park seems to be a way out of the center but is clearly signed from the main road, and there are a couple of shortcuts you can take on foot that will have you back in the main drag in less than 10 minutes. We checked into one of their on-site vans, equipped with a couple of brochures about the Clare and Barossa Valleys, and plotted our route through some of the most scenic areas we’ve visited yet.
A wander into town takes you past some lovely historic buildings. The super helpful and friendly Tourist Information staff are more than happy to answer any questions you have about the town and surrounding areas. The office itself is housed in a restored train carriage, a reminder of how important the railways were to this area’s livelihood.
Some of the most historic buildings in town are the four pubs. Being ardent fans of history, we decided it was our duty as dedicated tourists to visit each one of them and partake in a couple of cold ales. It really is one of the best ways to connect with the locals, who are always up for a chat, and we are thrilled to see that all of those we’ve visited over the past few weeks have still been a going concern and, in many cases, the center of the local social scene.
We were a bit concerned overnight as the van rocked and rolled with the blustery wind and a bit of rain, but as we hit the road to our next stop, Jamestown, it seemed to turn friendly. With only 45km to ride, almost entirely downhill on quiet roads, we sat back and relaxed and took in the scenery. Sunny blue skies, a gentle slope, and fresh legs must have made it one of the most pleasant rides yet.
Jamestown is a nice little place. It does have a caravan park but we were lucky enough to be catching up with one of my old university friends who has been living in the area for well over 20 years with her family. Four kids, a successful career, and more than two decades of experience hadn’t changed her a bit. It was great to catch up and really experience country town hospitality. We got to drive around the area on Sunday, visit the local farmers market at Wirrabara, and grab a pie at the “best bakery in South Australia” at Stone Hut, seeing more in a few hours than it would have taken us 2 or three days.
After much discussion, we took our friends’ suggestions for a route through the Barossa Valley into account. They drive the local roads all the time and know which ones are busy, hilly, and sealed or otherwise. Our next stop was Clare, one of the most famous wine regions in Australia. You all probably know I’m a bit partial to a drop or two of red, so it was pretty exciting for me.
The ride from Jamestown is basically downhill all the way to Spalding, with an average of over 25kmph before kicking up to Clare to complete around 79km. The second half was definitely a little more challenging, dropping our average right back to just over 20 mph.
The caravan park at Clare is about 3km south of the main shopping area, so we figured it would probably be sensible to see and do what we wanted to before checking in.
The first stop on the itinerary was the Knappstein Winery and Brewery, where I sampled a spectrum of reds, and Tim did a double-tasting of the one beer they produce.
The second stop was the Clare pub for a great $9.95 lunch—possibly the best value we’ve had on the trip.
The third stop was the Foodland to pick up something for dinner, and after a bit of a look around town, we dropped in at Bentley’s to pick up a few drinks before heading to the Caravan Park for the night. The publican was a little astounded at our story and kept us chatting for 20 minutes. Luckily, one of the customers who was staying at Caravan Park volunteered to carry the beers for us and had them in his fridge by the time we got there. We grabbed a comfortable grass pitch, investigated the pool, and had a relaxing afternoon in the treed surrounds.
On day 2, we got ourselves onto the Riesling Trail, a compressed gravel trail (you can pick it up across the road from the caravan park) that winds its way down through vineyards for about 20km to Auburn. Most of the way, we barely had to pedal, and other than a few stiff ups as the path crossed the roads, we barely got a sweat up.
We dropped in at the Seven Hills winery for a look. Everyone with experience in the area had recommended that this should be it if we only visited one winery. Not only do they have a great selection of wines, but you can also see the museum, underground cellar, and a lovely church within the surroundings.
Auburn is a nice little place and is conveniently placed on the Riesling, Mawson, and Rattler cycle paths. There’s a great little café called Cogwebs where Judy can answer all your questions on the trail and the surrounding area. Great coffee, great food, and great advice. What more can a touring cyclist ask for?
Judy advised that we take the road to Saddleworth and onto the Barrier Highway for the ride into Riverton. The road out is very quiet, as opposed to the one through to Rhynie. After a quick raspberry squash at the Saddleworth Hotel, we were in Riverton early in the afternoon and pitched up at the nice little caravan park on the main road. One of the highlights of riding this way is entering Riverton through a colonnade of gorgeous shady trees.
The next day, we were cycling to Kapunda in the Barossa Valley. I’m sure there’s much more to see in the Clare Valley, but we’re on track to be in Adelaide by the following Saturday, and we want to get a taste of the Barossa as well.
Hi, I am planning on a road trip on my pushbike from adelaide to broken hill (23/08 -30/08) and am wondering whether you’d suggest going the reverse direction?
Hi Fred. What’s the aim of the trip? We rode up to see our mums on our way across Australia, but there was no way we were riding back again to pick up where we left off. Instead, we got a lift back to Peterborough and then headed to the Barossa. It’s not the most riveting ride and the road has taken a beating with the rains in recent years. I’m not sure whther it’s all repaired or they are still doing work.
As there are not many hills, except for those a Thackaringa, I’d look at the prevailing winds to make the decision. They can be pretty fierce on the flat, so I’d rather have them helping rather than hindering us.There’s quite a distance between water stops, so a fierce headwind could really cause some challenges. If you are posting on FB or Instagram, drop us your link so we can follow and see how you go.